Japanese Whisky: The Best of 2023

Best Whisky of the Year: Chichibu for Royal Scotsman. Sure, Chichibu cognoscenti love those early 10-year Malt Dream Casks such as 212 and Te Airigh, as well as those stunners in the mid-500s, including Bar Ikkei (544), Factory (548) and The Ghost (554). However, cask number 1500, bottled at a whopping 65%, has topped them all. Glorious whisky from this fun Scottish pub in the middle of Tokyo.

Runner-up: Kanosuke for Sakananbar, single cask, 61% ABV. With an out-turn of 316 bottles, this is likely a sherry hogshead although no cask information is stated on the label. With Ace of Spades darkness, this is a bouncing bomb of sherry goodness.

Third place: Tsunuki Local Barley, bottled for the seventh anniversary of the distillery’s opening, is a fitting example of the magic being worked at the Mars distillery in Kagoshima, southern Japan.

Fourth place: Tsunuki single cask T339. A sherry hogshead, bottled at 59%. Significant peat levels (50 ppm) give the drinker paroxysms of delight. The high angel’s share caused by the Kyushu climate gifts us a stunning whisky that tastes far more mature than its stated five years.

Fifth place: Suntory Kansha. In this 100th anniversary of the grandee of Japanese Whisky, we couldn’t fail to mention any Suntory products. Kansha is a delightful, mizunara-heavy whisky that was produced in small quantities in a small bottle (180ml). A must.

Best long-matured Whisky of the Year: Yamazaki 18-year Mizunara. Aye, we all know the routine by now. Enjoy it while you can.

Best Whisky Bar in Japan: Bar Higuchi in Fukuoka.

Best Whisky Bar in Tokyo: Bar Kage in Ginza.

New Japanese Distilleries to Watch: Ikawa, Kuju, Yamaga. Among the plethora of new Japanese distilleries, these three are all producing lovely spirits. Get ready to stock up on these when they reach three years.

Best Japanese Whisky Unavailable to Buy: Fellow Distillers Project, which was available for tasting at the Bar Show in May and Tokyo Whisky Festival in December. Suntory, Nikka, Kirin, Mars and Chichibu shared whiskies with one another. Good news: Each created its own compelling blend. Bad news: None is available to purchase. Let’s hope all the blends are again available for tasting at festivals in 2024.

The Most Fun Whisky of the Year: Chichibu Edition 2023, matured in two plum wine barrels and a bourbon barrel.

Disappointment of the year: Suntory’s highball cans were sadly lacking. They just didn’t hit the mark, even with their recommended ice.

Overall, what a fabulous whisky year it has been. Thank you to all our wonderful guests and readers. You are truly cherished.

Here’s to a wonderful 2024. Happy New Year!

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